Similar to the piece I posted here not too long ago, this guide is about my holidays on the Isle Of Skye, but this time it is a more factual presentation of some of my favourite walks. Unfortunately I don’t have any pictures to accompany each walk, but hopefully my description will be enough. Like I said earlier, if anybody from the Scottish Tourist Board is interested in using my work, I’d be more than welcome to discuss some sort of arrangement. I like cash.
Skye is the largest and most northerly island of the Inner Hebrides. Only second to Lewis and Harris in size, it is the first major Scottish Island to be linked to the mainland by bridge. Its centre is dominated by hills; in particular the momentous Cuillin Mountains to the south, while its coastline is a series of peninsulas and bays. With breathtaking scenery, a rich and colourful history as well as a rich variety of wildlife, Eilean a’ Cheo has plenty to offer to the traveller.
The main interests for any walking enthusiast however, are the challenging and engaging walks that Skye boasts. As someone who has visited the Island numerous times over the years, I have always found the trip incredibly satisfying. Regardless of how many visits, the Island never fails to impress. From the difficult climbs in the Black Cuillins to the easier strolls around Portree, there are treks suitable for both the serious and casual walkers.
One of the most popular hill walks is The Storr. Part of the Trotternish peninsula, it is easily recognised by the strange rock pinnacles that stick out from the hillside. Commonly photographed by tourists, the view from the south is one of Skye’s more memorable images. These iconic rocks surround the basin known as the Sanctuary, the main focal point of the walk. The largest and most well-known of these peaks is the famous Old Man, which stands an impressive 50m (160ft) above its plinth.
A serious but straightforward excursion, your efforts will be rewarded with exhilarating views of the Sanctuary. With a mystical aura enveloping its secluded interior, it is worth spending a few hours exploring here before moving on. Towering above this prehistoric site are the summit cliffs of Storr. Split into five buttresses, the summit plateau can be accessed by a grass gully. Additional exploration is a possibility; one recommendation being the rarely visited summit of the Cairn Liath Cliffs. An easy scramble on the southern side allows for a great outlook of the chaotic terrain below, further enhancing this unforgettable experience on northern Skye’s highest mountain.
Travelling up the Island towards Staffin, the intimidating features of the Quiraing loom into view behind the small town. A labyrinth of rock spires, this place of mystery has frightened and thrilled visitors for over a century. The wind that howls between the narrow corridors can be daunting, but while the sun is shining there are few better places to roam around.
The main route is an easy and enjoyable circular path around the mountain with several places to explore. These include the 36m (120ft) needle spire and the imposing rocky eminence known as the Prison that stands opposite. Venture deeper into the heart of the Quiraing to approach the Table, a curiously flat expanse of grass hidden beneath the cliffs. Those who reach the plateau will be welcomed by spectacular views overlooking Staffin Bay.
On the opposite side of the Island reside two flat-topped mountains known as the MacLeod’s Tables. According to legend, the summits were lopped off by a supernatural force to provide a bed and table for St Columba after he was turned away by a local clan chief. Their Gaelic names of Healabhal Mhor and Healabhal Bheag -Big and Little Holy Mountains respectively- symbolise this myth. Geologists, however, have a more scientific explanation; the shapes reflecting the horizontal stratification of basalt lavas that the mountains are composed of.
The common name for the hills originates from when a MacLeod clan chief attempted to prove the superiority of his banquet hall by hosting a feast upon the top of Bheag. The summit was the table, the night sky above the ceiling and clansmen holding flaming torches were the candelabra. Today, Bheag and Mhor both make for exciting walks, with Loch Dunvegan and Loch Bracadale contributing to the attractive landscape that can seen from the Table’s peculiar summits.
However, the vistas from Skye’s mountains are only part of the Island’s charm. What cannot be forgotten are the walks around its superb coastline, with views that rival those found on the hills. One fine example is the classic hike to the highest sea stack on Skye. Located just off Idrigill point, the three stacks recognised as the MacLeod Maidens contribute to a fascinating backdrop which includes an abandoned village, hidden caves and wonderful natural arches that cannot fail to captivate your attention.
The stacks themselves can be approached head on, but moving further around the cliff will present better views of the Mother and her two daughters. It has been remarked that the Mother resembles a statue of a seated Queen Victoria; the summit block representing a head nodding to the daughter pinnacles. It is possible to climb the stack, with Ian Clough and J. McLean making the first ascension in 1959. However the severe grade given to the 63m (207ft) peak implies it is probably best to appreciate from afar.
Another enjoyable coastal exploration is the long and rough trek around Waternish point. Although Skye’s lonely peninsula doesn’t have the same overwhelming landscape as other parts of the Island, it compensates with its fascinating history. The most famous case is that of the Trumpan massacre, a bloody event that occurred one Sunday morning in 1578.
The MacLeods were worshipping in the town’s church when the McDonalds descended upon them. Exacting their revenge for the losses suffered to the MacLeods at Eigg, they blocked the door and set alight to the building. Only one girl managed to escape the flames and raise the alarm. Unable to leave as their boats were beached by the tide, the McDonalds were trapped and killed by the onrushing forces. This violent encounter became established as the battle of the Spoilt Dyke since the dead were buried under a large stone. The church is still standing today, a sombre reminder of this brutal chapter in Skye’s records.
Onto the walk and there are several things to detour by. These include two cairns erected in memory of John MacLeod and his son Roderick MacLeod of Unish; both of whom died during the 2nd battle of Waternish in 1350. There are also two well constructed brochs to explore; Dun Borrafiach and Dun Gearymore that can be spotted not far from the path.
Next are the prominent ruins of a Unish house. Abandoned to the sheep, it makes for a picturesque scene with the land behind the building sloping slowly down towards the sea. On the horizon an unmanned lighthouse is visible; the path to it presenting fine sea views including the pinnacle stump of An Castamac. The Raven’s Coastline on the east side is a more demanding but rewarding course. The principle feature to keep an eye out for is the Caisteal an Fhithich (The Raven’s Castle); a grassy stack connected to the cliff by a short beach causeway.
It was at Waternish where Bonnie Prince Charlie and Flora McDonald first reached Skye in 1746. Now you are more likely to see dolphins or whales off the promontory, making it a popular destination for keen naturalists. If they remain elusive, however, the Caledonian MacBrayne tours round the peninsula, offering consolation with pleasing shots of the illustrious ferry.
When my journeys to Skye end, I recall the places visited with an enduring sense of excitement and detail. Verbal descriptions inevitably fail to impress fully. The only way to experience these sights and sounds is to venture and explore. An adventure, indeed, awaits
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